Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Travel. Show all posts

Thursday 22 September 2011

The African Safari (Tarangire)

From the previous post: "...From thrilling vistas, to open expanses of land never seen before teeming with wild and free life, it was majestic Africa that was to open up in front of my eyes..." 

The adventure truly begins

Waking up to a calm and cool morning, it was time to get ready, have a leisurely breakfast. The land cruiser was loaded up, with all the equipments, food and luggage and off we left for our true blue African private safari. This meant that we would be sleeping in tents at public camp sites and have access only to common, basic facilities like cold water showers and toilets. In terms of private, what we would have as we discovered during the trip, was a cook who would whip up a good meal specifically for us and a guide/driver who would be dedicated to showcasing the best of wild Africa to us.

As Achmed, our tour operator, had explained previously, the journey initially would be quite comfortable as the roads were made of tarmac and rather well maintained. Further on, we would be down to dirt tracks and all its associated ups and downs.


We had a rather normal drive. Visible to us were large swathes of dry land with thorny bushes, a few Masai thatched hut villages and their herds. The scale of the land is only understood, though, when you are on the road. It takes ages to reach any destination. Not that you are being driven slowly. And we were only covering a limited portion of the northern safari circuit of Tanzania.

Finally we reached a public camp site, 118 kilometres south west of Arusha. As, Abombe, our guide pointed out, the smart thing to do, is to plan the journey such that, you manage to reach a public camp site before it gets filled up with other travellers like us. It gives us the advantage of scouting and pitching the tent in a better spot, within the place. As everything is on a 'first-come-first-served' rule, even the kitchen spot availability is a matter of concern. If our cook is not able to set up his paraphernalia then our food is likely to be of the very limited variety.

Now, another thing that I had realised during my pre-trip research, was that in Africa you have to be aware of the season in which you go. Whether it is summer/winter or dry/wet. In Tanzania, summer is usually December-March and winter is March-May with rains. So we were travelling at a time, where the onset of summer was imminent. In summer, the sun sucks the moisture out of the landscape, baking it dry and leaving withered grass as brittle as straw as well as trees minus most of their foliage.

The Tarangire National Park about 2,850 square kilometres (1,096 square miles), part of the Tarangire-Manyara ecosystem, is the sixth largest park in Tanzania named after the Tarangire river. In summer, the river reduces in size to a mere shadow of its wet season self, but attracts nomadic herds of wild life in search of life sustaining moisture. Outside of the Serengeti, this location contains one of the largest concentrations of wildlife herds, bringing in predators following them. The lions of Tarangire are also famous for being among the few tree climbing ones in its species. This promised us with some rich sights and being a nature/wildlife enthusiast, I was very keenly looking forward to it.

Having unloaded our luggage, set up the camp and after consuming an early lunch, we set off to have a look at what we could find in Tarangire.



It was a lovely start, indeed. The two main seasons were beautifully showcased in a stained glass artwork set up at the Tarangire park entrance.

Baobab (Adansonia) also known as monkey-bread tree
The first proper visual of the Baobab tree. Local lore was that as God was irritated with the tree, it was planted on Earth - upside down! The baobab, being of the deciduous type, especially in summer, minus the leaves does look upside down with the roots in the sky. Reputedly living for thousands of years, one of the key facts is that the tree stores thousands of litres of water inside the massive trunk to survive during summer and elephants especially love to bore holes into the trunk and suck the moisture to survive.

Tickets procured, we started driving into the park range.

Tarangire park range view 
The first thing, spotted was one of the most colourful birds in Africa. The Lilac breasted roller. Usually found alone and sometimes in pairs, this bird loves to sit on a high vantage position especially tree tops or poles, so it can search out ground based insects, lizards, scorpions, snails and rodents to hunt.

Lilac Breasted Roller (Coracias caudata)
Following this, I spotted a welcoming committee of Zebras, Wildebeests and Elephants. I would be seeing many more of these beautiful and sometimes strange animals over the next few days (more pictures and descriptions coming up later).

Young African female Elephant
It was a rather strange experience in being able to see these amazing creature so up close. My experience with nature has been such that usually, all creatures maintain a 'flight or fight' distance from humans and their natural predators. For most animals and birds, it is flight that they choose when an human intruder gets close. Here, they had gotten used to big black boxes on wheels, smelling of diesel and trundling along without harming them. As a result getting really close was possible and that's one of the charms of being here.

Next sighted was one of the varieties of Kingfishers that exist on this continent. The tree based Grey-headed Kingfisher which, unlike most Kingfishers, is not aquatic.

Grey-headed Kingfisher (Halcyon leucocephala)
Driving a bit further on, I spotted one of the most striking antelopes, I had ever seen till date. The Roan antelope. Such a handsome fellow. Fearless. And in his prime.

Waterbuck  (Kobus ellipsiprymnus)
By this time, adrenaline had kicked in. Full steam. Absolute salivation. When such magnificent creatures were there to view, enjoy, capture on camera and with the comfort of being driven by, what more can an nature enthusiast ask?

A bit further down and there was this dappled, long legged fellow giving me the look. What could I do? I shot him, too.


It had been a good day so far. It was getting late and as with all parks, after sun-down ideally no humans should be anywhere inside. That being the case, we headed back to the camp. A shower, change of clothes and we were ready for our first safari dinner. Our cook had come up with a selection of assorted dishes that was simply put - tasty and filling. An avocado starter, main course of rice and chicken, followed by a mildly sweet dessert and coffee, left us feeling satiated and ready to hit the sleeping bags in our tents.

Dozing off to sleep was easy, given how tired I was. Plus, the thought that tomorrow will be more magnificent creatures to be spotted was exciting.

The adventure continues in the next post.

Wednesday 21 September 2011

The African Safari

As mentioned in my post on Passion and being a passionate traveller among other things, I thought it would be a good idea to publish, some of my travel related adventures. I started with Hong Kong in Asia and am now shifting to the African continent.

The idea

It usually is a rather simple conversation that strikes off a decision to go somewhere, isn't it? In this case, it was a discussion among friends in a book shop about where would be an exotic place to go, during a forthcoming holiday. One of my friends held up a guide book on Africa and that's when the idea got generated.

The thing with a good idea, is that once it takes seed in your head, it tends to grow roots and flower and eventually turns into a fully matured tree, which you can't afford to ignore any more. And so began the discussion. Finally three people, including I, had decided that we would go to the East African country of Tanzania - probably one of the oldest known inhabited areas on Earth. The United Republic of Tanzania was derived from the two states of Tanganyika and Zanzibar, united in 1964.

As luck would have it, my American and the Hong Kong companions left it in my hands to do the research and organising the trip. With the week long Eid holidays coming up in Muscat, where we all were stationed, it seemed like the perfect opportunity to visit a land that none of us had ever been to. Also, there was another angle to consider.

While US and Hong Kong citizens are privileged in that, their passports are good enough for most countries to welcome them with a free or paid visa on arrival, it is not so the case with the Indian passport. Most often than not, I have had to apply for a visa well in advance. Not in the case of Tanzania, where the Indian passport was considered good enough to be provided with a paid visa on arrival. Given the few weeks left for the public holidays to start, this seemed a great, not-to-be missed opportunity that could be really accomplished.


Africa. The dark continent. The launch pad of human evolution. Exotic cultures, customs and cuisine. Wild animals. Majestic mountains. Parks and ranges that most of us have only so far seen on a Discovery or National Geographic TV channel. It was a thrill just to think about it, imagining how truly exciting it would be to have a real safari. A once in a lifetime kind of thing.

The Research

Starting with turning to Google search and various forums where other world travellers had provided information and feedback on services and other such things to keep in mind, I got into some quantitative and qualitative secondary research.

One organisation came across as quite decent. And as it turned out for us, Base Camp Tanzania, owned and managed by Achmed and Zainab Phillips was the best choice we made.

The feedback on the forums about Achmed, his responsive nature, professionalism and ability to adhere to indicated costs, while providing the best economies of scale turned out to be correct. I started by corresponding with him. It was impressive in that he responded to every request I made - information, domestic flight tickets, itinerary, etc. I also checked out the best and economical way to get to Africa from the Middle East. I wouldn't say that the overall costs were cheap, but were they worth it? A resounding yes! I had to literally push one of the trip companions as the person was having some difficulty in confirming the choice, despite having made the decision. Finally, we agreed on the trip details. I went ahead and booked the flight tickets. It also meant, some of the excitement started off in Muscat itself.

As we discovered, it was necessary for travellers to get a Yellow Fever vaccination prior to reaching Tanzania, else it would a jab at the airport and 100 US dollars down the drain. As with most African states, various diseases are always a possibility and thankfully today we do have a plethora of preventive medication available to ensure we do not suffer during or after such a trip. Since all the hemming and hawing on the trip had happened, while we were supposed to get the vaccination about 10 days prior to the trip, we eventually ended up getting it a day before we were supposed to leave! Luckily, it was September and a good time to go with low instances of mosquitoes and therefore fewer chances of being infected.

The Start

Finally it was D-day. Backpacks with essentials and sleeping bags were packed. Anti-mosquito and basic medications in our survival kit was assembled. Tickets were re-confirmed. Travel money had been converted into US dollars. Passports were in hand. And with big smiles on our faces, off we went to the airport.

Our itinerary was quite packed. We were to land in Dar-es-Salaam the capital of Tanzania. Take a domestic flight to the town of Arusha. From there we would be taking a private safari vehicle, with a guide and a cook to various parks, ending up back in Arusha almost a week later. Then it would be a quick flight to Zanzibar. A sea ferry back to the capital. And return to Muscat.

Flight to Dar-es-Salaam was uneventful. Landed at the airport. One terminal building contained both the international and domestic sections. Security and infrastructure were minimal. We had a gap of a couple of hours before we boarded the domestic flight. So we headed out of the building, and waited.

It was also the day of Eid. And kids from a nearby ghetto were being provided free access to the airport and tubes of ice candy. As a bonus, here was an American, a Chinese origin and an Indian trio just outside. I had gone for a short walk to take some shots of the building. When I started walking back, I couldn't see my companions. Instead, I only saw a multitude of bobbing heads! Turns out the kids were gazing and feeling the exotic looking visitors sitting in front of them.


I was laughing a lot. It was really crazy, watching these kids stroking the white skin of one person and the straight hair of the other. Maybe they had never seen such exotic creatures before! Finally had to wade in and 'rescue' my companions, got the kids to move off and we trundled up the domestic section for our journey to Arusha.

Arusha

It is not a very long flight - about an hour or so. And interestingly it was a turbo-prop aircraft that was to transport us. It was branded - Precision Air and the emblem on the tail wing of the aircraft was a jumping antelope. The colours also looked really nice. As we were walking up to board the aircraft, one of my companions had a 'eye-opened' look, for having never seen an ATR-type plane before. Gave me the opportunity to inform that there are plenty of these in India. They tend to bob up and down a bit, especially if there are air pockets, but it was generally safe.


The airport, near Arusha, where we were going was called Kilimanjaro - the famous African mountain that has been written about by just about anybody who has ever been enchanted with this beautiful continent. Interestingly the beer served on board was also called Kilimanjaro!

It was night by the time we landed. We were met on time by our guide - Abombe. A very interesting character, whom I came to know quite well over the next week. He was in a largish vehicle - the indefatigable Land Cruiser. Again, a vehicle we all got to know quite well as we spent most of our time in it. Abombe took us from the airport to Arusha and the drive was pretty decent. But when he took the turn off the main road to take us to the resort, where we were being camped for the night, it felt like we were in the real Africa. A non-existent road, houses and shops inches away from the body of the vehicle, people standing and looking. Finally we end up in front of a large gate and inside was a really lovely resort. And Achmed, who was waiting to meet and greet us.


Now, I had only corresponded with Achmed and given no other indication, had assumed he was a full blown Tanzanian. Well he was Tanzanian alright, having married his wonderful wife Zainab from the country and having settled there. But the accent and look was as British as it gets! With a handle-bar moustache, twinkling eyes and a penchant for straight faced jokes, he was an interesting character. It seems he fell in love with this place and the people and decided to settle down. Even changed his name to Achmed and would not disclose what his full name or previous name was. He regaled us with some stories and a briefing, as dinner was being prepared and served to us. Here was the first time, that I had a taste of a local refreshing beer 'Safari' and an interesting carbonated ginger ale called 'Stoney Tangawizi'. The place was enthralling in the type of furniture and furnishings used. Especially worth noting was the roof made from banana plantation bark, after curing and drying. All in all, a great trip so far. It was a bit cool as well and I certainly looked forward to the shower and the bed. As the 'real' adventure starts the next day.

From thrilling vistas, to open expanses of land never seen before teeming with wild and free life, it was majestic Africa that was to open up in front of my eyes. Coming up, in the next post.

Friday 16 September 2011

The Hong Kong sojourn - 4

From the previous post: "...A bit of drizzle, but not much to bother. Stopped at a viewing point on the walkway to snap off some nice shots. And it was time to go back to the hotel.

Another day, another adventure. Coming up.
"



Leaving Hong Kong island


Yummy dim sums!
The day started like any other day, as you may have seen in my previous posts (HK-1, HK-2, HK-3). Today's highlights really were the trip to a huge mall, near the airport and the lovely lunch that followed at the food court. Have I said before, that I simply can't have enough of steamed dim sums? Any day, give me any number and I will be happy as a hungry baby with a bottle in its mouth. Have a look at the trays in the picture, delicious isn't it? And have to mention that the spicy chicken - a Sichuan province speciality, was a tongue bomber to say the least. I was left sweat soaking wet from head down, with paroxysms of pain and pleasure alternating on my facial muscles. Was it worth it? Yes. Would I repeat it? Maybe. 


After having picked up more clothes and other necessities, it was finally time to leave the mall, get back to the hotel, pack up and leave Hong Kong island. As I am blindly following my friend and guide, I have absolutely no clue where I will be staying for the night. And it does turn out to be a good choice.


Lamma island


We end up at Aberdeen dock on Hong Kong island, and realisation dawns on me that I will be experiencing one more mode of transportation of this city - boat! And guess what? The octopus card works here too. Incredible. So off we go on an approximately 45 minute sea ride, ending up at a resort on Lamma island. This island is known to the Chinese as Pok Liu Chau or simply Pok Liu. It is the third largest island in this city/state. Interestingly, the island is named based on its shape of the limb of a tree and its similarity to the Chinese character resembling Y.


Lamma island
It was a wonderful resting place. And the next day morning, waking up, sitting on the balcony and watching the far away skyscrapers minus the hustle and bustle of city life - it really felt like a chilled out holiday. Even the fishing boats and trawlers, seem to be crawling at a leisurely pace. There are many things to engage in, on this island. From trekking around the island, to visiting the authentic villages, still populated by fisher folk. Spending a day there was the absolute balm to the hectic lifestyle that the city somehow ingrains into your system, irrespective of whether you are a visitor or a resident.


After spending the day on this beautiful island and enjoying the breezy but calm beach, sights and people it was time to head back to the city once again. And this time, it was going to be Kowloon that was the destination.


Kowloon


Being back in the city, after the island was akin to stepping in through a time warp. One moment, it is the gentle breeze and calming sounds of steady waves landing on the beach, the next is the whizzing around of all modes of transportation carrying copious amounts of women, children and men, intent on reaching their destination at the earliest possible time. What a difference.


Finally, I ended up in a place called Mong Kok, which is quite famous for the extremely great deals on electronic products that one can find there. As I discovered first hand. But first, was meeting up with some more old friends for dinner. And if you are in Hong Kong, I strongly recommend that you should try to visit, at least once, a dai pai dong (classified as cooked food stall), before they completely disappear from Hong Kong. For the authentic Cantonese food and atmosphere. Do try to visit in a group, it's much more fun. The dai pai dong, we were ensconced in hardly looked like a stall on the street, as it had a full roof and was covered from four sides. But the tables, chairs, quick service all attested to it being one. And it was yet another gastronomic delight. Prawns in garlic sauce, fried beef strips seasoned with vegetables and an assortment of other food dishes were laid on the table, thanks to the skilful ordering by my friends. 


Street market entrance
Wading through offers galore


Finally, a walk through the street markets was undertaken. I could see pretty much everything and anything would be sold in these tented shops, neatly lined up in front of concrete shops. As my friend and guide had to go work, I had plenty of time browsing through various streets, looking at some exotic and inexplicable food products to stand knick knacks and souvenirs.


Also managed to find some of the latest electronic products and I discovered that negotiation works. I really have no issues negotiating, as long as there is mutual respect at the end of it all and both the trader and I have a satisfied countenance.


A tired but happy traveller, I was by the end of this day. And the next day promised to be even more interesting as my friend had agreed to take me to the very well known and popular hangout, followed up with the famous sound and light show.


Just a few more days left here, but the thought in my head as I dozed off was, I could so happily live here. How was I to know that the next day, would make this thought, nearly a resolution?


Lan Kwai Fong or LKF as it is popularly known. What a place to walk through. A jazzy, posh watering hole for the thirsty minded, would be the first thought that comes to mind. Having a beer and interacting with the staff at the classic Hard Rock Cafe was a pleasure. Exiting from here, we moved on to ferry that shuttles between Hong Kong island and Kowloon. We timed it just right. Everyday between 8-8.20 PM, many of the buildings lining by the sea shore, light up and gives an aura of beauty that could possibly be found in a concrete jungle.


Tsim Sha Tsui

Night view
Arriving on the ferry pier at Tsim Sha Tsui, often abbreviated as TST, we took a nice long walk by the sea front. Akin to Hollywood, there is a boulevard of stars (with hand prints) of popular actors and cinema producers like Jackie Chan. All that walking, left us hungry enough to go to the local version of a fast food joint, where I came to realise that toasted break with honey and sprinkled powdered sugar was a local favourite, apart from the soupy noodles. Finally, it was time to head home, with the indication given by my friend that tomorrow, I would be literally touching the sky! 


The next and last post in this series, comes up next.

Thursday 15 September 2011

The Hong Kong sojourn - 3

From the previous post: "...A nearby bakery also beckoned for a look at some exquisite creations, but was already full so just ended taking a snap.

The adventure continues, in the next post.
"

The story continues

The first place, I went to was Times Square (of the Hong Kong variety). I discovered that it really does not matter, what time or day it is - people love to browse and shop in this city. Maybe it is the fact that more than 7 million people are crammed into a small portion of the available land makes the density seem so high, but it certainly leads to efficiencies in use of space. Maybe only Tokyo does a bit better, but there is no denying the energy on display.

Or for that matter wasted. Walking on roads, especially in Kowloon, you are likely to suddenly feel a nice cool breeze, particularly emanating from one direction. Look around you, and chances are you will notice a shop with two sides open and air-conditioners in full swing. A spectacle, that wouldn't be normally experienced anywhere else in the world. Make no mistake, it is a selling point for the merchant. Get out of the hot, humid street and buy my wares, screamed at a subliminal thought level.


Sweet Basil Thai restaurant
After a walk around the place, soaking in the atmosphere (thank goodness for air conditioning), it was time for lunch. And it was my choice to select Thai food as the preferred cuisine on this occasion. Off we went to 'Sweet Basil' Thai restaurant. Words fail me here. What a sumptuous meal! Gastronomic delight is all I could gasp out at the end of the leisurely drawn out lunch. Interestingly, I thought that as a traveller I had time to take it easy, but it seems, even working people were drawn to this place to spend some quality time eating and talking with each other.
Flute player idol

There was a beautiful idol of a flute player intricately carved in traditional Thai style. So alive was the statue that I could almost hear the flute playing in my head.

Now, it was off to shop! And it was a rather forced choice, due to the incident I mentioned in the first post of this series.

Shopping and eating


Shopping in Hong Kong is an activity that is as easy as blinking your eyelids. The plethora of shops enticing me to have a look is near bewildering. The choices, aplenty. The range, enormous. The deals, exciting. If you travel to this place, and you know that, you are the sort who has a penchant to pick up products, impulsively, be prepared to part with cash! Way more cash than you may have imagined. Of course, all for a good reason, eh?

Another realisation was that this city is extremely good for picking up amazing deals on electronic products, but when it comes to clothes, it is a different story. Your size may be considered quite normal where you are from, but it is not likely to be the case here. Especially not, if you are bargain hunting. It took me ages to pick up a shirt, because my usual size is L or XL, and when the design I chose would be brought to me for a trial, I would realise on trying that it was not meant to be worn on my kind of size. And I can't even claim to be a really large person!

The eatery
The menu!
Finally, picked up a few clothes, and it was time to try something, I never had before - tortoise shell gelatine. Another thing, to keep in mind while in south east Asia is an open mind to the kind of food that is available. Locally, the tortoise shell gel/soup is favoured for its medicinal properties. The shell is only one of the many ingredients that go into the soup. It is quite bitter to taste, can be had hot or cold, has a smooth jelly-like texture and a layer of sugar syrup can be added to make it more palatable. Interestingly, there were clear visuals of the ingredients used. All were reared and grown in farms - how sustainable, no idea. The entrance of the eatery had these huge samovars that were used for keeping the product hot.

The walk through the Park 

Map of the Hong Kong park

Finally, we left the area and proceeded to a destination, usually on the 'must visit' list, for travellers to this city - The Peak! Thanks to my friend and guide, we chose to take a short hike through the Hong Kong park on the way to the peak. It is a point, on top of a mountain, that gives some of the best views of Hong Kong. But first, the walk. It was a very soothing walk through the park and as you can see from some of the pictures that I have put up here, very green, calm and quiet - in total contrast to the rest of the city.

Man made waterfall

Birds chirping, turtles and fish swimming calmly, walkers strolling leisurely, enchanting fragrances - all in all, a true breath of fresh air in the city that hardly relaxes, really.  


Where all to go?
The Peak as it is locally called is actually the Victoria Peak, also known as Mount Austin is located in the western part of Hong Kong. While the actual summit is occupied by a radio telecommunications facility and is closed to the general public, much of the surrounding areas consist of parks and extremely pricey residential buildings. 
The park walkway

The iconic Bank of China building
To think back to the old days, when those few people who used to live on the mountain had to be hand carried on 'sedan chairs' before the funicular tram was built.


The peak layered waterfall
With the tram opening up way back in 1888, more and more people started building residential units, which later on got converted into today's modern high rises. Today residency in this location is purely a function of how rich you are and has got nothing to do with the beauty of the place or the arresting views that the peak/mountain side offers.
Crowded tram entrance


At last, we made it to the peak tram entrance. With tickets priced at HK$ 40 for a same day return on the tram, it is a must see, must do activity.

See the print behind
And the crowds were teeming. So much so, that it took us nearly half an hour to get to the point where we could board the tram. The return journey was equally bad. But that is just the way it works in this city. No complaints.

The weirdest feeling while riding the tram is the optical illusion that all the buildings on the mountain are horribly tilted, and seem likely to fall off any moment! Reality, though, is actually a matter of physics.

The tram is the world's steepest funicular system, and while only a short 1.4 kilometre journey, the angle at which one sits is half way between sitting and lying down on a normal bed, leading to this optical illusion.



The Peak


Hong Kong at night
Finally, we reached the top. It had not been a sunny day and by the time in the evening, when we got there, the misty rain heavy clouds would keep on reducing visibility to nearly 0 at times. Initially, we went through the steep high rise building housing the shops.

It had been many months since I had a nice juicy hamburger. And Burger King beckoned alluringly. So it was off to dinner. Ah the joy of a nicely cooked, soft, juicy, spicy burger. Then followed up, by a walk just outside the building. The walkway could also be used as jogging track, since it goes around the mountain, but jogging was the last thing in our minds after that burger. A bit of drizzle, but not much to bother. Stopped at a viewing point on the walkway to snap off some nice shots. And it was time to go back to the hotel.

Another day, another adventure. Coming up.

Wednesday 14 September 2011

The Hong Kong sojourn - 2

From the previous post: "...It was not a write off. Not at all. Many more interesting experiences were going to happen. This was only a small blip in the other wise beautiful experience. And yet another lesson learnt.

The rest of the experience continues in the next post."

...and here we go.

Day 1, first half had been extremely exciting to say the least. Hong Kong, as with other cities is only a part of the larger city. Actually New Territories is at the far end, close to the China boder, then Kowloon, further down is Hong Kong island and still further down is Lamma island.

Happy Valley racetrack spectator stand
Finally ended up at a very nice and comfortable hotel in a place called Happy Valley, formerly known as Wong Nai Chung Valley. Predominantly residential in nature, there was a lovely horse racetrack nearby as well, and as I was informed, the area is rated as one of the posh ones in Hong Kong.

My friend had decided that I was to be subject to as many culinary treats as possible and I was only happier for it. For my objective of going to any new place is assimilate as much as possible about the Customs, Culture and Cuisine, followed locally. So just about 30 metres away from the hotel was this traditional, wonton noodle soup eatery. A tad expensive, but what a lovely treat. It was a pleasure consuming shrimp wontons floating in a soup filled with glass noodles. I did wonder along, why was it so expensive (apart from the now understood Hong Kong factor). I was informed that this is an old, well established, up scale and popular eatery and as we were sitting there, across the table sat one of the, apparently, most popular Hong Kong singers!

Efficiency - a hall mark of Hong Kong

Back to the hotel, feeling comfortable and full. Rested a bit. Then it was off to the Sheung Shui, New Territories for a 'hot pot' dinner with my friend's family. And this is where I discovered the power and utility of 'Octopus'. My friend had already purchased an Octopus card for me. Now, I have to reminisce a bit about it. I found it to be a typical, representative Hong Kong product, fully geared towards the concept of efficiency! And it truly is. It is a pre-paid card, called Octopus simply because it was an enabler for anyone to smoothly commute across the various types of transportation as well as use it for purchases at the ever present 7-Eleven stores.

The HK version of the tube map
It is essentially, a rechargable contacless stored value smart card. It can be used to make electronic payments in offline and onlien systems across Hong Kong. And as I discovered over the week, just hold your purse containing the card near and reader at an appropriate time and the barriers to the Mass Transit Railway (MTR) or buses or trams and many more would open up. Way better than having to carry around notes and loose change all the time. And I will write a bit later on about the transportation system in Hong Kong. Impressive, to say the least.

The first dinner
 
Back, to the dinner plan. This was my first ever hot pot (also known to some as 'steamboat') and apart from meeting the family, I was so looking forward to the experience, having heard a lot about it earlier.

Hot pot at Sheung Shui
Oh man. It was some culinary experience. I fell in gastronomic love with it. The concept is so interesting, easy, full fledged, group oriented and overall very fulfilling. There was a huge variety of meats and vegetables. There was a deep bowl with split sections, which was continuously being heated by a butane gas burner. One side had plain water, without many condiments, the other side was spicy. And much to my chagrin, I realised that despite being an Indian, there was only so much spice I could take!

To quench the thirst was some very delectable bamboo shoot drinks. Spread over nearly a couple of hours, it was an extremely enjoyable and sociable evening, cooking, talking, eating, talking, drinking, talking. So much so, that at the end, I wanted to walk back to Hong Kong island given the amount of food and beverages in me. Realisation dawns: people in Hong Kong really love to eat and drink.

And then it was back to hotel, for some rest until the next day morning which my friend indicated was going to be equally fun filled. Exciting!

Thoroughly tired, by the time I got back to the hotel, after having been travelling since the previous day (delayed flights onward to Delhi, time dilly dallied at the IGI airport, actual flight time, lost a bag, and criss crossing Hong Kong - see my previous post), when I hit the bed and opened my eyes, it felt like it was just a minute ago, but a full 8 hours had passed! 

The next day

It was mid-morning and time to go off and explore some more of Asia's world city. First thing out, was to stop at a nearby semi-street joint for some rice, roasted pork and chicken, with soup brunch. A nearby bakery also beckoned for a look at some exquisite creations, but was already full so just ended taking a snap.

The adventure continues, in the next post.

Tuesday 13 September 2011

The Hong Kong sojourn

Recently, I took the plunge and made a trip to Hong Kong. It was an experience that left me with memories that I cherish. Not everything was positive and hunky-dory, but certainly there were so many highlights, that this account may only do short justice to them. This account will be in series, as there is way too much to recount and I do not want to keep you away from whatever else you are engaged in, for that long (at least I would like to think what I write is engaging enough).


Pre-travel perception


Hong Kong. Meaning 'fragrant harbour'. Marketed as Asia's World City. And it is. No doubts about that. At all. My perception about Hong Kong was based on a few Jackie Chan, Chow Yun Fat and Michelle Yeoh flicks and more recently based on my interaction with colleagues who were from this pulsating city/state.


Being an intrepid traveller, after hearing so much about the city from my former colleagues, it was a rather natural choice to go and directly experience the place. And one short week, has left me with a taste for want more. Much more.

The flight experience


Departure Terminal 3, IGI Airport, Delhi
Even from Kerala, that is so well connected by airlines to the Gulf countries, rather than other parts of the world, due to the significant population working in the Middle Eastern countries, with technological advances I was able to book my trip tickets on line and get to Hong Kong. It did involve rather tedious waiting periods at the new glitzy IGI airport in Delhi, however since this was my first trip out of India through Delhi in recent times, it was memorable.

I also found it interesting that the local airline, I used is still on the learning curve as far as international travel is concerned. One of the key points being that for most international airlines, if a stop on the way to the destination lasts for more than 8 hours, usually the traveller is offered a hotel room to rest - absolutely not the case here! Spending a night sitting on one of the modern benches at the Delhi airport leaves you feeling rather bleary and with a crick in the neck. But having made the decision to go, I suppose it is part of the experience. Would I repeat it? No. We learn from our experiences, don't we? I would rather take an airline that gives me more comforts, for the price that I pay, to go long distance.


The first view

Travelling to a place that is time-wise ahead of India is always fraught with the chances of being bleary eyed and woolly headed, given the time difference with my body clock. But the excitement of the first time, usually makes it bearable.

Hong Kong, first view from air
And if the flight arrives early morning at the destination, it is more than made up by the fantastic vistas one gets to see from the aircraft window, thanks to the morning sun light.

To me, it is also a reminder that however much, I view images or read about a place on line , nothing beats being there and experiencing it first hand.

The first peeks through the clouds start getting the heart pumping a bit faster. Yes! made it, is the usual thought.

I have been repeatedly told that Hong Kong is a congested place, given that only 20% of the available land mass is used for human occupation versus the sheer density of the population residing there. Sounds similar to India, would it be? Not quite, as I discovered.

Immigration is an unusually smooth process for me. I am an Indian. I am not used to being given visas (and that too free!) on arrival in any country. At this point, bubbles a thought in my head - I really do not understand why the Indian government cannot have a reciprocal on arrival visa arrangement with at least the top 40 countries that Indians generally travel or have visitors arrive from. But that is another blog post for later.

Having gone through the smooth stamping of the passport process, picked up the luggage and freshened up at the airport itself. When everything is clean, neat, organised and sign posted, it is such a relief! Met my close friend, who had very kindly agreed to be my guide for this trip.

Double deck bus at the HK international airport
It was agreed that taking the City Bus A11, departing from the airport and arriving finally at the North Point ferry terminus, is a good option, as we were supposed to get down at Wan Chai. Turned out otherwise, though. It was a modern double deck bus that came up to the bus station just outside the terminus.

Going in, understood that while I could keep my small backpack with me, the one medium sized luggage I had, was too large for the steps to the upper deck, so had to leave it on the luggage rack near the entrance. And as this was the first views on land, I was keen to go and sit on the upper deck, as it would afford great views. So modern are these buses, that there are video cameras and small LCD screens that show the interior of the bus, allowing you to keep an eye out for the luggage as well. Unfortunately, the bus we got in, the camera had fogged up due to the humidity and the visibility was very low on the LCD screen. The only stop in the next one hour that it took for us to reach Wan Chai, was at the Macau ferry terminus, Sheung Wan. Many people got off the bus, as I guess they were travelling to Macau or getting off at Sheung Wan.

So excited I was sitting on top and enjoying the views as well as catching up with my friend, I didn't notice anything else. Came down at the Wan Chai bus stop and received a hard mental blow! My luggage was no longer there. Somebody had taken it, when leaving the bus as the stop about 20 minutes back. First time ever this has happened to me, in all my world travels. A surreal feeling. It slowly registers in my head that I have actually lost all my clothes, gifts, toiletries, etc. Luckily, I had all my important documents and the camera with me in the back pack.

Got off the bus. My friend and I were dismayed. But nothing much that we could do at that point of time. Meantime, the stomach has started growling like crazy. So first stop, feed the stomach. Rest will follow. Off to a nearby Yoshinoya - a Japanese food chain that serves pretty good quality food at reasonable prices. Lovely bowl of beef noodles with hot tea, and the stomach had quietened down. What next?

North Point bus terminus
The first thing we did was to go to the Wan Chai Police Station and register the loss/theft of luggage. Then we visited the North Point ferry terminus - the last stop for the A11. We found a bag there with the terminus official, left by another Indian traveller from Delhi to Hong Kong via an Air India flight. The immediate thought was, ok maybe it is just a mix up. The bag was not exactly similar to mine, but at a quick glance it was possible - same colour and all that. So there was hope that maybe this is all just a mix up and that when the person realises his mistake, the bag will be exchanged through City Bus.

Sadly, despite the many follow ups by my friend, various calls and emails to City Bus offices, the Macau Ferry company and the HK Police, my luggage was never located. Thus started my trip. But hold on.

It was not a write off. Not at all. Many more interesting experiences were going to happen. This was only a small blip in the other wise beautiful experience. And yet another lesson learnt.

The rest of the experience continues in the next post.

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