Wednesday 5 October 2011

Antibes - the French Connection

From the previous post: "...As I was sinking into sleep, I could feel my heart still beating out the message, "yes, yes, beautiful French Riviera, yes, yes"..."

Antibes

I woke up to a glorious morning with mild sunlight and a nip in the air. It felt good to be in Antibes in summer. I actually had to take a moment to re-assure myself that this was not a dream and I was actually there.

Bernard my friend and the perfect host, had prepared breakfast already. An interesting thing at his house was that all the meals we had there, was while sitting on the patio, overlooking the lawn. In the morning it was beautiful, in the night exotic.


I found it so much more interesting. In India or the Gulf countries, chances are most meals are consumed inside the house. The weather usually does not permit otherwise. However, the nice, clean, crispy weather here makes it an absolute pleasure to be out rather that in the house.

Having had our breakfast, I set off with Bernard, to wander through the Antibes city centre. It was a small city located just perfectly in the middle of the French Riviera.


We first headed to the 'Mediatheque' as Bernard wanted to check his mail. I also took the opportunity to do the same. Additionally, I had a walk around inside the place. It was wonderful to see the attention to detail and impressive efforts put in creating a venue where both information and knowledge were available for all people. I think, it is only education and knowledge especially through reading, that can broaden our views on life and its challenges. Here, I could see from kids to adults of all ages using the facilities to know more.


It was also good to see the care, civic sense and efforts that had gone into beautifying the place, case in point was the random shooting fountain set up exactly in the centre of the town. We had walked here from the Mediatheque, as we were expecting to joined by another 'guest' who also has turned out to be a good friend. Jia, a girl from Beijing, who happens to be studying in Paris and had decided to couch surf with Bernard for that week. Just like me, this was her first visit to the south of France. After having received Jia, all of us went walking around town.


First place we reached was a Friday market. A temporary set up, it was a place and day on which people brought in art collectibles for sale. I saw some exquisite copper and brass artefacts as well as some pencil/charcoal sketches. I could see that people had the freedom to express their creativity and put it up for sale. Some were full time artists, whereas most of the sellers were hobbyists.


As we progressed walking through the small town, we came to a street which consisted of shops like the Charcuterie Lyonnaise and some local bakeries. Stepped into one, to pick up some French style baguette for lunch. The ladies running the bakery were very gracious with the bug eyed bloke busy photographing and eyeing all the goodies on display on the shelves. So nice were they, that I was even given gratis a bunch of rolls.

Having built up a good appetite, eventually we headed back home, where our gracious host prepared a lovely salad which we had with the fresh bread we had picked up at the patisserie.


Having lunch, accompanied with a lovely glass of Rose (pronounced ro-say) by the patio at noon was so out of the ordinary for me, that I was practically in raptures enjoying the moment. Of course to add further merriment, was some lively chatter.

When I had booked the tickets initially to come here, I had inadvertently and luckily picked a time when the famous Cannes Film Festival would be held. Imagine, for an avid cine watcher and advertising background chap like me, how wonderful it felt, when post-lunch we headed to, of course...(drum roll reaching a crescendo)...

Cannes


It sure was filled with crowds, not all of whom had arrived there to partake in the Film Festival. There were a lot of people, where were enjoying the beach scene as well.


Walking on the path that went past the venerable Carlton Hotel, it was absolutely clear that it was indeed film festival time. Watching the Academy award winning creator of movies like Reservoir Dogs, Pulp Fiction, Kill Bill, Inglorious Basterds, etc. - Quentin Tarantino walking just a few feet away felt incredible. Following him were hordes of paparazzi, whom he was adroitly evading.

However, a few metres further I saw a sight that left me stumped, to say the least.


A eye searingly bright yellow mustang, which had clear undertones of Indian influence with the words 'Jodhpur' and what looked like 'Mahabharat' written in Hindi on it. Also printed on was the signature of Buzz Aldrin (the second human being to step foot on the moon), which I couldn't for the life of me, connect to whatever else was on the car.

A bit further, on the beach side I could see an enterprising soul had painstakingly created a sand sculpture and had even etched Merci or thank you for some Euros, hoped to be tossed his way.


I have to say, the sculpture was closely resembling the visual of the squirrel who wouldn't let go of the lone nut from the film Ice Age.

After viewing the huge crowds who had gathered by now to catch a glimpse of the 'stars' attending the festival, it began to feel a bit pressured to walk around in that area. So we decided to turn into a parallel lane and started walking. When it hit me. The one thing that so many of us find so difficult to resist. I think, I not only lost a few kilos in drooling, I probably developed nerves of steel to have been able to walk away from it.

Ladies and gentlemen, may I present the Chocolaterie.


The beauty of this particular shop was the creative ways in which chocolate had been moulded into masks, baskets, etc. All of course, fully consumable. And if by now, you still haven't felt even a bit of chocolate craving, here is something that I had the toughest time resisting.


French macaroons and dark chocolate with hazel nuts stacked so lovingly and waiting to be deliciously consumed! Indeed, after all this excitement I was trying hard to notice the other sights, sounds and smells on the street. Had to work hard. Real hard.

Finally started noticing that there were flowers all over the place. All streets were full of flowers in so many colours. In pots, hanging from posts, sprouting from sills, you name it. Also distinctly noticeable was the fact that people in France love their four legged friends. Dogs of all sizes, shapes, colours, breeds were visible on leashes, in handbags, in car windows. Watching a dog enjoying the breeze as it was being driven in an open top Mercedes Benz CLK convertible, I thought, 'this dog does have an enchanted life'.

By now, it was evening and we headed back home in Bernard's cute little car. Jia and I helped our host in whatever way possible to cook and set up dinner. The result was simply, magnifique!


I realised that cheese and wine were essential components of any dinner in France. I have to admit some of my tastes, especially red wine, are quite influenced by this wonderful French experience.

Having finished the dinner, topped off with a simple but tasty dessert of crushed apple with cinnamon sprinkled on top, we spent some time chatting before retiring for the night. As I slept off, the next day's agenda brought a smile to my face. I could literally hear the high pitched whines of very powerful engines.

Continued in the next post.

Monday 3 October 2011

The French Connection

As mentioned in my post on Passion and being a passionate traveller among other things, I thought it would be a good idea to publish, some of my travel related adventures. I started with Hong Kong in Asia, moved on to Tanzania in Africa and am now shifting to Europe.

The idea

To me, travelling is an essential part of the journey through life. In my opinion, securing an opportunity to travel, is akin to securing an income every month. Both are required to be able to live a life, fully. Usually.

Some time back, I was introduced by a friend, to a social network called Couch Surfing. The philosophy of this network is quite simple. It is a network that lets you develop an understanding of peoples, places and cultures. In short it promotes inter cultural connections.

When I was based in Muscat, I became an active member of this network. Whether it was meeting up with like minded people who were already residing in the city or hosting people who were aiming to develop a better and more local, rather than 'touristy', understanding of Muscat through me.

My first 'guest', who has eventually turned out to be a good friend goes by the name of Bernard. He is French and an intrepid traveller who has been to many parts of the world. A complete gentleman, he was my first experience of hosting a person through the network.

We had a great time in Muscat, during the week he stayed over. We connected easily and became friends. I was able to learn so much from his various travel experiences as well as the good values by which, he lived life. By the time he was about to leave, we had discussed and agreed that I would visit him in France. In a place called Antibes.

This series is a recollection of the wonderful time I had, thanks to his generosity, in the beautiful French Riviera.

Pre-trip preparations

The old adage is that a journey begins with the first step. Today, it is more likely to be the first click. So with the trusty mouse and laptop in hand, I searched for the best airfares to Europe. Managed to get a good deal with Emirates Airlines. Tickets booked and confirmed.

Now comes the bit about the visa. As I mentioned in my African Safari post, as an India passport holder, one of the key activities in getting ready for international travel, involves getting the visit visa sorted out. Went off to the French consulate. Found out that I was eligible to get a Schengen visa. However, I would pretty much need to provide every possible document demonstrating my ability to reside in France for a week and more importantly, a strong committed reason to actually return back to Muscat.

Many a times, I have thought about this. I understand that the Indian government has not entered into reciprocal arrangements for providing visa on arrival norms. However, the main reason why the Indian passport holder has to prove s/he will return back to place of residence is simply because there have been way too many Indians who have managed to get into a country and vanished without a trace, to eventually surface as a illegal worker and after a point of time becomes the citizen of that country or a neighbouring territory. All in the pursuit of a better life. Understandable, given the systems and great governance of our beautiful country, until a few decades back. It does mean however, that even today for any Indian, who wishes to travel to another country, unless the immigration officials are satisfied that the person is a genuine traveller who intends to only visit and return, getting a visa becomes rather tough.

Thankfully, I received full support from my work colleagues and the management at the advertising agency where I was employed. Though I had all the relevant documents, I still went with some jitters to the embassy. Fortunately, I was approved to travel. Yes! What a sigh of relief.

The journey

Driving to the airport is such a joyful feeling. The joyfully trembling anticipation of getting into an aircraft, flying way above the clouds, the aroma of food and beverages being served, the superb in flight entertainment system called ICE on Emirates Airlines and above all the good service, especially as I was not on any of the UAE-India sectors. Flight was Muscat - Dubai - Nice. Flight from Muscat was good, no hassles other than the standard Dubai processes - remove the shoes, remove the belt, etc. Thankfully there was no iris scan this time.

As the flight from Dubai to Nice was taxing for take off, I could not help but notice how similar the Dubai airport looked to a caterpillar.

Dubai airport
While the infrastructure looked and is really modern in Dubai, the landscape is dry and dusty as behoves a dry desert environment.

Dubai viewed from above
While the Nice airport was not really comparable to Dubai, the difference between the Gulf and European landscape could not be more evident. Sun kissed beaches and a glimmering sea right next to the landing strip.

Nice, France - first view from above
Bernard was kind enough to come pick me up from the airport and drive us back to his beautiful house (more on it later). After putting my baggage in the room, we headed to a place called Juan les Pins which I would get to know well, over the next few days. Perfect, cool, crisp evening and a beautiful start to the trip.


It really was the French Riviera. I was finally here. What a moment. The beach was beautiful. The people were care free and relaxed. It was summer time, so long days and shorter nights. Going from a place in the middle east, where culturally it is not acceptable to show much of your body to a place like the south of France, where culturally it was acceptable to being very lightly dressed, if at all, was like a culture and perspective shake in some ways. Realisation dawns - the world is so different, just a few hours apart.


To me, nothing could be more starkly reminiscent than this beautiful sculpture of a nude lady waiting, by the board walk at Juan les Pins.

Sea Gull, Juan les Pins, France
The only creature gawking at me, while I was in my photographer mode. Nobody else, could care less about being photographed. Everybody appeared relaxed, having a good time, generally happy and carefree.


I was enlightened about a very interesting law about the beach area by Bernard. While private owners could restrict their space to only those people they wanted, everyone had access to the sea shore and a through fare area had to be provided. This meant that we could actually walk all along the sea shore for kilometres, while passing by restaurants and beach beds.


This beautiful mansion and beach resort, captured my eyes as I walked past. Finally, we called it a day. Went back to the house, had some great wine and an excellent dinner prepared by Bernard. We talked for a while, catching up on the time since we last met in Muscat. Then it was time to sleep. As I was sinking into sleep, I could feel my heart still beating out the message, "yes, yes, beautiful French Riviera, yes, yes".

Still more amazing experiences to come. In the next post. 

Sunday 2 October 2011

The Father is dead

Today is the day, the Father of India was born. Mohandas Karamchand Gandhi. He lived for a large part of his life and also died, for the very notion of a free, liberal, secular and democratic India.



Who cares?

I do. I am sure, there many people out there, who do. And I am equally sure that there are many from 5 generations of Indians, who have very little resonance with the man, his ideals, goals and dreams.

Thinking about this man who literally moved mountains, this man who singularly managed to rouse enough Indians to get the once mighty empire to leave this country - I can not help but feel a sense of awe equally coupled with sadness.

Fast, fast, fast

Gandhi, the man was not perfect. Who is? But his ideas were genuine and worthy. His single biggest weapon of fasting and the resultant sparking of mass movement for the birthright of every human - freedom, showed the world what true sacrifice can bring. Awe.

Yet today, 'fasting' has become more used as a political tool to bend the will or showcase the might or simply rebel. With resultant media attention. There is nothing sacrificial about today's applied Gandhian philosophy. Sadness.

Alcohol and drugs

Gandhi's principles made his idea of an alcohol and drug independent nation of people, who would rise from temptation and self induced stupor to actually work towards creating and sustaining the very essences of democracy - a reality. Awe.

Yet today, our governments rake in the highest amount of revenues from the 'official' sale of both alcohol and drugs. The state in which Gandhi was born, continues to maintain an alcohol free image, but reality is that it is rather easily available at every nook and corner. As covered in The NRI blog post, some people from Kerala actually like the BBC covering a story on this place being the highest liquor consuming state in India. Sadness.

Gender equality

Gandhi wanted India to be a nation, where both men and women have equal rights to freedom, education and the opportunity to improve their lives. In his own words, "Women will enjoy the same rights as men." He ensured that in the movements to democracy, not once were women kept away or behind. Awe.

Today, this very nation has people who are ashamed and worried about having a girl child. Our clearly declining gender ratio or number of women abused every day are horrifying stories revealed across our multiple media sources, calmly watched or read and - nothing. We have become truly immune in our souls. Sadness.

The viral factor

Sixty to seventy odd years back, a man wearing a simple cotton cloth, brought the nation to stand as one with him in the quest for a life not enslaved. He did not have massive marketing budgets. He did not have qualified chartered accountants and finance managers who secured his funding. He had charisma. Awe.

Today, it is every piece of paper with this very man's image on a that is valued way more than anything else he stood for. As a dialogue in a film a few years back, made it so aptly clear - people love Gandhi and adore his value, for every Indian currency note has his face on it. Sadness.

Yesterday, today, tomorrow

Yesterday, the mountain of a man idealised and created a nation.

Today, the nation 'respects' him by watching movies on him, singing his songs, quoting his quotes, changing statuses and profile pictures on Facebook - for a day!

Tomorrow, we march on in the singular "pursuit of happyness", in our own way. I agree, looking back and running forward will only result in a fall. But stopping ever so once in a while, looking back and then turning forward can help us realise whether we are actually running in the right direction. Isn't it?

Happiness

This train of thought led to me to another monumental figure.

JRD Tata - another great man with gigantic ideas, responsible for creating one of India's most respected organisations and making a real difference in the lives of many a people globally. He had once said, he does not want India to be an economic super power. Rather, he wanted India to be a happy nation.

We are happy, or are we? We have some of the richest people in the world from India. We have a 400 million strong and growing middle class. We also have 200 million people too poor and unable to eat one meal a day. We have race riots, but India has not yet splintered into multiple countries. We have true freedom, even if we take it for granted. We have systems, even if they are antiquated and manipulated by the government. We really are in the pursuit of happiness, but we get more thrilled to be known as an economic super power with enough clout to make the world listen to us. We are happy to have a powerful car to drive, but we are happier at having beaten the red light by milliseconds.

Having thought about all this, I only felt a sense of bewilderment. Have we become dysfunctional? Can we be more and importantly better than what we have become? Yes. Will we actually become more and better? Who knows.

On a different offbeat note, an important realisation was seared into my psyche a few days back.


Beware! Truly "unwatchable"


I had heard of blood diamonds, but I had not heard of blood minerals. Until I watched the film, at http://www.unwatchable.cc/thefilm/. I do recommend that each and every one of you, do watch it. But beware, it is truly unwatchable

Friday 30 September 2011

Zanzibar - the African Safari [end]

From the previous post: "...Next day morning, Abombe would be dropping us off at the airport from where we would be flying to laid back Zanzibar. The final days of this magnificent journey were upon us..."

Be it an exhilarating journey or a deep thought train, reaching the end is always a bitter-sweet moment. So was this.

The day began as usual with the breakfast, pack up, double-check everything is in the right place, get into the land cruiser and leave for the airport. Having said bye to Joachim, our cook, last night when we arrived at the Oasis resort, now it was time to say bye to Abombe, our kind, faithful, knowledgeable and helpful driver/guide. Having gotten into the small 'Kilimanjaro' airport, we boarded the now familiar ATR aircraft from Precision Air.

Last view of Arusha
We took off on time and were soon winging our way across the sea to the island of Zanzibar and its charms.

Zanzibar

In Muscat, we had met many an Omani whose family had been Zanzibari at some point of time. There is a huge historical narrative that could be written up about it (maybe I will, in another post). I think it would suffice to say that the linkage between Oman and Zanzibar is quite strong. So my appetite for the place, its culture and cuisine had already been whetted even before ever stepping on the land.

As we finally winged over the sea and began the descent it felt great to see fishing trawlers and aquamarine blue water lashing upon the white sand beaches. Landed and collected our baggage from the handlers directly, as there was no luggage conveyor belt. Interestingly, here we had to get our passports out and again stamped with a 'visa' on arrival but there was no additional fees to pay.

We got out of the airport and waited near the exit for a bit. Our driver had not turned up. It seems there had been some mix up about the time we were to arrive and therefore the hotel had not sent the chap. After getting the communication sorted out, the guy was with us in 15 minutes. Not a very big place, really.

Reached the hotel. It was an old building, converted into a hotel. No lifts. We had to climb four levels of stairs and then some, to reach our room. It was a large airy place, with lots of sitting area on the roof as well as in the courtyard. First view was lovely. During low tide, sand bars form near the beach. Some enterprising people would set up temporary luncheon tables and food, which could be had for a fee. Sadly, we didn't have the time to be able to do this, but it certainly looked good from where I was viewing it.

Lunch in the middle of the sea!
Having freshened up, we headed out for a walk to the nearby beach, some of Tanzania's refreshing chilled brews and a wholesome lunch.


Hunger sated, it was time for some walking around and exploring the area, which is called 'stone town'. It is the older part of Zanzibar. It felt good walking around a place, that looked so ancient yet well maintained. It was by the seafront and known as Forodhani in the local parlance. The Arab influence was evident in the architecture and people.

Foradani, Stone Town, Zanzibar
There were quite a few museums around as well, which attested the historical importance Zanzibar had, in the past when slavery used to be a roaringly profitable business and African natives were captured and transported from the very same loading docks to the then new age countries of Europe and America.

The styling of the buildings, columns, stair cases and stained glasses were all very interesting to observe and capture.


One of my companions, was by this time feeling quite the 'non-city' person, having been on the safari for a week. So she went off to get some 'beautification' done and become 'presentable'. I guess, it was important for her.

Meantime, two of us decided to meander around the place. We came to a nice park, where we sat down and were conversing about various subjects. When, a man with rastafarian hair locks and dress, came and sat down right next to us. Asking us, where we were from and as I suspected, it turned out to be a sales pitch for some service. I informed him, we were really not interested. He kept insisting. Had to make it distinctly clear, we were not buying whatever he was selling. He actually had the nerve to get offended. Wow. Talk about aggressive sales.

Eventually, we caught up with the now 'glamorous' version of our companion and headed out to for some local cuisine. Had to walk around a bit, before we finally managed to locate a restaurant that had only local Zanzibari food. It was an interesting fare, though bit bland. We tried about 6 different types of food and ended it with a local dessert, as well. I discovered that what is termed 'cassava' in Zanzibar is 'tapioca' in Kerala. Muhogo wa nazi literally translates to 'coconut cassava'. Ugali - maize flour cooked to a dough like consistency eaten usually with beef and sauces or vegetable stew, was another local dish, favoured at Forodhani. Vitumbua - rice cup cakes, reminded me of the Khushboo idly found in Chennai, India. Hot and soft Crepes were also interesting.

Post dinner, we headed out to the 'night market' that would be set up near the park we had been in the afternoon. So through twisting alleyways we made our way to the market. The walk distinctly reminded me of the paths I had walked through, on my way to school, in the older part of Ahmedabad in my childhood. Interestingly, there were quite a few Indian shop keepers there as well. And the place was redolent of the six spices that Zanzibar was now renowned for.

By the time we made it to the night market, one of the visiting trio had become too exhausted to continue and retired for the night. The remaining two, then explored the various food fare on display, for the night market was exactly that. A temporarily set up area where hawkers would come on their push carts, display various kinds of sea food, and it would be cooked right in front of you. Some of the food reminded me of a 'tapas' style of cooking.

After this, we drifted toward the old fort in the same Foradani area, where we witnessed a uniquely local style of musical performance known as Taarab. Then it was back to hotel, climb up four floors and some deep slumber.

Inner courtyard
Next day morning, waking up the salty sea breeze twinged with the smell of fish, it felt quite different to the past week. It was pack up time. Went down for a standard continental breakfast, deposited the bags and took off again for a walk around the place, before we headed to the pier where we were taking the ferry to Dar-es-Salaam, the capital of Tanzania and our exit point back to Muscat.

When we reached the ferry site, it was crowded with passengers. After a week of the open vistasendless plains and gorges, it felt a bit stifling. Finally, made it on board the ferry.


As we started the two and a half hour journey to Dar-es-Salaam, while viewing Forodhani from the sea, there was a twinge of regret at not having spend enough time here and a hope to return back to this place and discover more of what it had to offer. I felt this way once before, on the Andaman and Nicobar islands in India (a post will be up soon).


After docking at Dar-es-Salaam, we found our way out, with the unmistakable sounds of a city ringing in the ears. Apart from slight nausea that one of my companions felt on riding the waves, nothing untoward had happened. We were met by the brother of one of our colleagues, who was kind enough to show us a bit of the city and take us to a restaurant.

As I was walking to the restaurant, I looked up and saw a beautiful set of murals depicting the wildlife of Tanzania, on the under hang of the roof.


I must state, that while the lunch was good, the location and the view were simply outstanding. It was an outdoor restaurant by a cove, and the shimmering water out there was crystal clear and tantalizingly close by, so much so that I wished I had the time to put on swimming trunks and jump in.


After having seen and partaken in such beauty, it was that time when the airport looms in front of you and the realisation stings as it settles in, it was time to head back. While a part me looks forward to being back to the known and familiar, the soul still yearns for experiencing more such beauty that only Earth has.

If reading is living, writing is re-living. I have thoroughly enjoyed bringing to life and immortalising these memories. I hope you too have enjoyed every bit of it. And shared the joy with your friends too. As they say in Swahili, asante sana and kwaheri for now.

Wednesday 28 September 2011

Cauldron of life - the African Safari (continued)

From the previous post: "Also to unfold in front of my eyes, was a spectacle that was so rare which even Abombe had never seen in his 12 year career as a wildlife guide."


The cauldron of life


The sound of a thousand hooves drumming on the floor of a crater, is sweet music to most predators. To me, it signified life within the cauldron. An entire life lived in 260 square kilometres area. As a human, I feel privileged to have experienced life beyond just the immediate circle.


Today's agenda was simply to scour the Ngorongoro crater to sight as much wildlife as possible for half a day and then it was an late afternoon drive back to Arusha. So, it was an early morning wake up. Misty and chilly breeze. Almost everybody I saw out there were looking like Arctic explorers - with their stuffed jackets, woollen caps and footwear. And here I was walking around in joggers, jeans and a linen shirt. I think, unobtrusively everyone was looking at me, as being slightly off hinged in the brain. All I could think was, what a nice brandy it had been the previous night, the warmth still continues!


Finally, Abombe, the girls and I were off in our trusty box on wheels. A few hundred metres on the dirt track and a site that even today leaves me in a trance. An open veld with rolling hills interspersed with acacia clumps. A picture, such that mere words cannot do justice. Further enhanced by a family of giraffes who were out for breakfast.


Giraffe (Giraffa camelopardalis)
Immensely tall, but gentle and fragile, these beautiful beasts were a sight to watch whether grazing on the top leaves of a thorny acacia or running. Incredibly they have a heart, measuring an amazing 2 feet long and weighing 10 kilos. Their blood pressure is approximately double of any other large mammal.


Entering the crater was through a steep rutted road, giving very good views of the space. Finally made it to the floor level, and the drive started. First among the spotted creatures was one of the world's heaviest birds - the Kori Bustard.

Kori Bustard (Ardeotis kori)
When I saw the bird, I was reminded of one of my marketing campaigns which started with the headline - "Bustard is not a bad word...".

And after all this while of looking out for some sign of the Wildebeest herds, which had mostly migrated in search of greener pastures, got to see a smallish herd. Antelopes, they may be, but strange looking beasts with rather well developed muzzles. Also known as Gnu. More than half a million of these beasts go in a circulatory migration path across the Serengeti in search of nutrient rich grass. Watch any channel dedicated to wildlife and chances are you are likely to see the migration at some point of time.

Blue Wildebeest (Connochaetes taurinus)
One popular term that is used often in the safari circuits in Africa is - the big 5. We had seen all the big guys except the double horned rhinoceros. Abombe informed us that there are some in the Ngorongoro crater and we were hoping to catch a sight. Sadly that did not happen.

However, what did happen was something that even our elderly guide had not seen in his 12 years of guide service. That it was a rare sight was further knocked in, when I described the event to Achmed, our tour operator, whom we met later in the night at Arusha.

Incredible

The Ostrich is one of the large birds in Africa. A flightless bird, which almost all of us have seen/heard of. Even terms like, hiding your head in the sand like an Ostrich is used to signify a negative trait among people refusing to accept reality. The truth is, stranger than fiction. Always. That day was no exception. Just as we turned a corner and reached a large patch of grass land, we arrived in time to watch a male Ostrich complete his mating ritual dance and mount the female. Abombe explained to us that the Ostrich, once done with this will need time to 'recover'.


Something, probably instinct, told me not to move from the spot. After having done with the lady, the guy featured in the picture, had started walking. I saw another lady of the same ilk, was hanging around at some distance. He smartly walked up to her, and started his mating ritual again. It is a sort of dance, where he raises his feathered wings and tail to form a larger plumage and then actually shakes his body and bobs his bald head in a dance. Incredibly, the second female Ostrich accepted his performance and allowed him to do the job! Two mating acts, one immediately after the other, is something that is rather rare to observe.

After all this excitement, we went off for lunch. Apart from all the other travellers for the day, who had stopped by the same designated picnic lunch spot, there were teams of kites out there, all trying to grab a bite - by hook or claw. Equally interesting was to observe the Helmeted Guinea fowl calmly walking by, pecking at whatever they could get on the ground.

Helmeted Guineafowl (Numida meleagris)
Having done the tour of the place, and missed seeing any rhinos, it was time to return to the camp. Had a bit of free time and then off back to Arusha.

At this point, I remembered something that Achmed had told us during the briefing. He mentioned about an old tusker who liked to stay close to the camp site of the Ngorongoro. In his words, "It is an accident waiting to happen". Essentially, the elephant was down to its last molars. Therefore it was looking for easy food to eat and an accessible water source. The large tank at the camp site, was his 'watering hole' and the green shoots of the plants and leaves nearby assuaged his hunger.


But what most visitors forget is that this is a wild creature. Not a tame domesticated animal. People try to go close, take pictures of him, especially with their camera flash on. This irritates the old man a lot. Irrespective of his age, all this behemoth needs to do is swing his trunk and from photographer to a flying corpse could be a grim reality. This was even more pronounced to me, when he turned suddenly and did a short snorting charge at one of the men, who had dared to go past him.

Taking a circuitous route, I went to the men's toilet. As I was doing what nature makes us do, right in front of me was a window. Guess what I saw through the window? Talk about feeling puny! This was, by far, the closest I have ever been to a wild pachyderm.


It was time to leave. All things and people packed back into the land cruiser. On the way down, stopped over at a bunch of shops that were specifically in the business of selling products for visitors to take away. Being the designated negotiator, managed to get a range of things for a relatively low cost. Then on, it was back to Arusha. One more night stay at the beautiful Oasis resort.

Next day morning, Abombe would be dropping us off at the airport from where we would be flying to laid back Zanzibar. The final days of this magnificent journey were upon us.

Continued in the next and final post in this series.

--------------

You may want to check out:

Endless plains - the African Safari (continued)

From the previous post: "After sighting some more enthralling wildlife, we headed back for our lunch at the camp site. A relaxed lunch and then we were off again, to see what more the Serengeti would reveal to us."

Nature's creativity

The rest of the remaining day and the first half of the next day were spent scouring the vast Serengeti plains. I think, considering the short time, we managed to just about glimpse the creativity that Nature had achieved and showcased in this wonderful reserve.

In any travel, there are multiple moments which may have affected us very positively or negatively, so much so that we like to talk dime a dozen about it.

I have put down below selected pictures that I managed to get, which stood out to me as good compositions, or maybe it was just plumb luck. Either way, I hope you enjoy it as much as I do.

Secretary Bird (Sagittarius serpentarius)
The Secretary bird with eagle like body on crane like legs, is also interestingly referred to as the Devil's horse by the locals. Being largely terrestrial, it prefers to walk rather than fly. Likely to be seen in air, mostly during the mating season. Favourite food: snakes, lizards, small mammals.

Spotted hyena (Crocuta crocuta)
The Spotted Hyena, also known as laughing hyena are often mislabelled as cowardly scavengers. Hardly! These are matriarchal in nature and tend to hunt larger prey in teams using various strategies. While I had seen many of these guys earlier, only now was I able to get close enough to take the picture above. Later, I was lucky enough to observe a whole family near their den. One young chap decided to come really close and have a look at the gawking strange looking creatures in the box on wheels. Had to shoot him, for his predator's cuteness quotient.

Spotted Hyena cub
Moving a little bit further down the trail, we came across the Black-backed Jackal. They are also known as silver-backed or red jackal.

Black-backed Jackal (Canis mesomelas)

Further on, came across an acacia tree containing a nest. Zoomed closer and was delighted to see a chick. A magnificent Lappet-faced Vulture in the making.

Lappet-faced Vulture or Nubian Vulture (Torgos tracheliotos)
Still on the trail, we reached a sort of water hole where the pachyderms were arriving with entire families.

African Savanna Elephant (Loxodonta africana)
The African elephant is, currently, the largest living terrestrial animal. Even females have small 'tusks'. Ranging from 20-24 feet in length and between 11-13 feet in height, they weight around 6,000-9,000 kilos. Highly intelligent, very social with their own kind, they are herbivorous. Similar to their Asian cousins, are a pleasure to watch from a distance. Though normally, they avoid humans, get too close and chances are, you are in danger of being attacked. However with 7 billion humans on this earth, conflict with elephants is increasingly the norm. And both species, lose their loved ones.

Still further on, we had a bit of a rattle. As we drove on, we came across this magnificent male specimen, who did not quite like us invading his space. Rather than engage in a losing battle with the moody guy, Abombe actually reversed the vehicle some distance.

African buffalo or Cape buffalo (Syncerus caffer)
Though not related, the African buffalo is slightly smaller and lighter than the Asian wild water buffalo. Nonetheless can be a fearsome attacker should it feel in danger.

A bit later, came across this beauty. Probably one of the best known gazelles - Thomson's gazelle. Skittish. Nimble. Runs at the slightest of dangers.

Thomson's gazelle (Eudorcas thomsonii)
With the plethora of animals on display, by now it was rather difficult to stop the oohs and ahas. Until this moment. I was a bit taken aback looking at this strange looking animal - sort of looked like a cow bred wrong! It was none other than Coke's Hartebeest.

Coke's Hartebeest (Alcelaphus buselaphus cokii)
While a bit ungainly in appearance, these are antelopes. Quite nimble too. Can reach up to 70 kilometres per hour speed.

Where the prey is, so would be the predators. Sadly, populations across wild species have been declining in Africa. But when you look into the eyes of a queen, you do realise that such beauty should not be allowed to perish.


She was part of a pride that was gambolling around with the young ones. Not yet fully mature, I fervently hope that soon, she would find her mate and produce more of her kind.

Stricken

As the previous day came to a close, it was back to the camp, dinner, sleep and off again the next day for some more touring of the endless plains. However, half day later, by the time we got back to the camp, tragedy struck. No, not of the life threatening variety. But severe enough. Diarrhoea. A cramped stomach and loose bowels are not good partners in a trip. Luckily the medicine kit came handy. However, even medicine needs time to sort out the mess that is your stomach.

Though my companions were fine, I had to just grit my teeth and bear it on the journey back the same route, we had traversed earlier. Now, along with the external bone-rattling and teetch-chattering bumps, combined with the internal attempts of my stomach to have an urgent group meeting with my intestines, it was a ride though hell.

To make matters that much more exciting, as well as to ensure that some African soil could forever reside inside us, right in front was another land cruiser dishing out constant red dust. So much so that by the time, we reached the rim of the Ngorongoro crater, where the public campsite was located, all of us humans, vehicle, bags, gear - everything, looked pinkish red with the fine dust that had settled into every nook and cranny possible.  

The Ngorongoro

The crater is actually a large unbroken, unflooded, volcanic caldera, about 260 kilometres squared at its floor level. We were to camp on the rim and go down the next day.

Ngorongoro Crater
On reaching, usual process. Off load gear. Put up the tent. Freshen up. Two differences though. A stomach that had still not quietened. And cold water. Now you may think, after all that heat and dust, a cold shower would be great. Well, you may like to keep in mind that when you are standing approximately 15,000 feet above mean sea level, the temperature becomes a rather chilly 15 degrees and drops further as the sun retreats. As I had mentioned in an earlier post, my thought of how cold can Africa be? came to be a rather sticky thorn in my conscience.

By the time, we got into the meal area, thanks to the generosity of my companions, I was covered in a shawl that mildly retained the heat in me. Multiple cups of coffee did not make any difference. Then, inspiration! Abombe was going to a nearby town to pick up some necessities. I requested him to fetch us half a bottle of local brandy. That saved the night, literally! There were two of us, who consumed the brandy. It kept us warm enough to handle the ultra cold night. Next day morning, was gloriously misty and chilly. Best part, the stomach had decided to stop rebelling and behave.

Today, we were going to explore the Ngorongoro reservation which unlike the Serengeti, had a large set of herds and predators, about 25,000 animals, who never migrate and thus live their entire lives within the crater.

Also to unfold in front of my eyes, was a spectacle that was so rare that even Abombe had never seen in his 12 year career as a wildlife guide. Coming up, in the next post.

---------------

You may want to check out:

What are we really focusing on?

Are the words Trust and Faith , really just words or do they truly matter? These days, and most nights too, are really about nerve wrack...